At the beginning of October 2018 I decided to climb Mt Kita (Kitadake/北岳) in the Southern Alps (Minami Alps/南アルプス) in Japan. Mt Kita is the 2nd highest moutain in Japan after Mt Fuji (富士山) at 3193m with a prominence of 2239m. Thus, it is famous for being the “highest viewing point of Mt Fuji (富士山)”.
I took the last train from Shinjuku, Tokyo (新宿) to Kofu (甲府市), the capital of Yamanashi Prefecture (山梨県). From Kofu station (甲府駅), a mountain climbing bus leaves at 04:25am (2050jpy one way) towards the trail head to MtKita (北岳). I looked for a place to sleep for a little while and ended up going to a karaoke box next to the station, which was good enough. There is a coin locker at Kofu station which doesn’t get locked down, so I stored a couple of things there, which I wouldn’t need for the climb. Fittingly, there was a 24h music challenge going on at the station, where a group played music for 24h straight.
However, many people were just sleeping in the station, or actually right in-front of the bus stop…! To be first in line?
In the morning, the number of people grew significantly, but we were told that at least 3/enough busses will come so not to worry. Which turned out to be true!
The bus ride to the base of Mt Kita takes two hours on a winding mountain road. It takes you up from 250m to 1530m.
At 6:30am we arrived at the trail head. There is a hut with toilets/information material at the bus stop. The hut is close to a river at 1530m. Right across the river is another small hut (where one might be able to stay in?), and a camp ground. It was really, really crowded that day…
The day before, a Taifun struck Japan so today the skies were clear with strong winds. The bridge was rocking back and forth in the wind…
The trail follows a river very closely, first through a forest..
And at ~2000m it turns into bushes. There were lots of people on the trail, some carried an incredible amount of stuff up the mountain, while others went really light weight. The summit of MtKita (北岳) is on the top right of the picture in the clouds.
The trail becomes increasingly steeper although is still easy to follow. The view was amazing though, especially with the autumn colours sprinkled in…
The wind was still strong but as the trail is somewhat protected from it by the mountains, that could only be guessed from the pace the clouds were moving at.
From ~2700m on there is no more trial but a series of ladders & steps instead. Nothing difficult but if you’re behind a large group of people I could image it’d take some time to get up…
There is great rest place right before you reach the ridge…
Slightly afterwards, I reached the ridge. The weather was great with an amazing view, and Mt Fuji (富士山) in the backgroud (click the image to enlarge it)!
I litteraly had to turn around every couple of meters to take a picture…
Then, there’s a fork where you can either head towards the summit of Mt Kita (北岳) directly or go towards the Mt Kita Hut (or Villa as they call it, 北岳山荘). If you also want to summit Mt Aino (間ノ岳), I’d suggest going to Mt Aino first, thus to head towards the hut at the intersection. With my limited time, I made the mistake of conitnuing further towards the summit here.
I came to the next junction, where the actual summit ridge starts. Once I arrived there you could see down the other side of Mt Kita and it was very exposed. Due to the Taifun the day before, the wind was extremely strong…! It was only 10:30am so, I now decided that I actually might have enough time to also climb Mt Aino too and then come back for Mt Kita. After some pondering I decided on a turn-around time to definitely make it to Mt Kita’s summit and still be able to catch my bus at 16:40 towards Kofu.
The weather changed extremely quickly due to the wind, revealing a stunning panorama of Mt Aino and Kitadake Villa. From the junction it’s about 3.6km to the summit of Mt Aino.
The hut also has a camping ground with agreat view of Mt Fuji (富士山). Should you come here, I’d recommend camping instead of staying at the hut, as the Japanese-mountain-hut expereience is not that joyful, especially considering the high price.
View back towards Mt Kita and the hut in the foreground.
On the way to Mt Aino, I traversed multiple small peaks, one of those was Mt Nakashirane (中白根山) at 3055m.
The trail then continuous on relatively steadily along the ridge leading up to Mt Aino. It’s not very exposed but be careful not to trip…
I finally reached the summit of Mt Aino at 11:35am, about one hour after I left the Mt Kita/Hut junction. Although it was a bit rushed…
I had a quick Onigiri before heading back the same way towards the summit of Mt Kita.
Many trails in Japan are always marked with signs where you can/should go, such as arrows…
And signs where you should not go, as there is a steep drop behind. Looks a bit deceiving to non-Japanese people sometimes I think. In Europe trails are sometimes marked in red colour and crosses are not uncommon as trail markers. In Japan though, a cross means “NO” while a circle would mean “YES”.
Shortly after, the camp ground has already significantly filled up, and Mt Fuji (富士山) almost vanished.
Down on the other side, fall colours were readily coming through already!
The climb all the way up to Mt Kita (北岳) took a little longer than anticipated. Mostly, because on the upper parts there are sections which are one-way only and secured by metal rails/ropes.
Finally arrived at the top at 13:30 and met a nice Japanese guy, who is also from Sendai there.
I got going almost immediately after having a bite to eat to catch the bus 3h later. The view back towards the Hut / Mt Aino was stunning!
The view up the buttress of Mt Kita (北岳), which can also be free climbed.
Hurtling down the mountain I soon arrived back in the forest. I met only 2 people on my way down – most people stay overnight in the hut or camp.
It was very serene coming down, albeit I was terribly tired.
25.9km later and 2300m of cumulative elevation gain I finally reached the bus stop 15min before the bus departed. It was a great trip all around – I’m happy to provide more details/the GPX track for it. The Japanese government maps can be found here. If I were to do it again, I would definitely stay one night on the camp ground though, if only to see the sunrise next to Mt Fuji while waking up!
Daniel Ng says:
Hi
Nice info.
Noted you went up in early Oct.
I am also thinking of doing it in Oct thus my questions.
1. Whats the low and high temp at the top?
2. Do you have to trek on snow?
3. Will regular trekking shoes be ok?
4. Any special equipment needed?
5. Signs easily spotted?
6. Is it necessary to have a mountain guide?
7. Any other adv that I should be aware of?
Thank you
Dan
May 13, 2019 — 22:15
nb says:
Hi Daniel,
thanks:)
Concerning your questions, I’ll try to answer them as best as I can. Of course, the weather really depends on the season and I can’t make any good predictions there. When I went in the beginning of October 2019 there was no snow at all anywhere on the mountain. I hiked up in shorts and T-shirt and put a windbreaker on once I reached the top to traverse the ridges. I don’t know the exact temperatures anymore but my guess would be that it was around ~10c at the top at that time (mid-day). Thus during the night I would expect it to be around freezing (~0c) at the top.
As for the shoes, if the weather is good and it didn’t rain the day before (slippery, muddy) then I think regular trekking shoes will be fine if you’re sure-footed. If the soles are grippy enough for scrambling and provide enough underfoot protection for walking on smaller sharp rocks the shoes are sufficient I think.
No special equipment as in ropes, harnesses etc are needed unless you plan on climbing up the buttress of Mt Kita. A few Japanese people will wear helmets along the normal route too, but in my opinion they’re not required.
The trail is visible from the trail head and is well marked – no worries there. Put a good map on your phone (Gaia GPS with Japan Topo Maps, Yamap etc) and you should be good incase something is not clear.
I won’t recommend you to not get a guide, because of course it’s never a bad idea. But I’ve not seen anyone except for larger groups who had a guide – I certainly didn’t. Not required but that of course depends on your experience with mountaineering etc.
One thing you should be aware of is, that if you plan on staying in the hut at the top you should make a reservation beforehand. Also, in Japan it’s custom to arrive at a hat by 15h so if you plan to arrive later or expect to arrive later let them know! Similarly, if you plan on camping next to the hut (recommend over staying in the hut tbh), try to arrive & pitch your tent before 15h and then you can still climb the summit etc (bring a head torch).
Enjoy and let me know if you have further questions :=)
May 15, 2019 — 14:22
Daniel says:
Thank you very much for yr very informative reply.
We are most certain to be there 27th Sep.
We will take it easy.
Day 1 Kofu to Sharaneonike Goya Hut for th night.
Day 2. Sharaneonike Goya Hut to Summit and to Kitadake Sanso Hut.
Day 3. Kitadake Sanso Hut to Ainodake, back to Kitadake Sanso Hut and down to Hirogawara trailhead via Happon col and Futama.
Above doable?
Just one more question.
Where to hire helmets?
May 15, 2019 — 17:01
nb says:
Hi Daniel,
your plan sounds good and very doable. Make sure to reserve a place to stay at Shiranoike Hut (http://shiraneoike.com/index.html) and Kitadake Sanso Hut () beforehand. Some huts might be a bit difficult to reach as they use Sattelite Phones for communication and the connection might be weather dependent.
Btw, if you want more insight into staying in mountain huts in Japan I can recommend looking at this page: http://liliki.net/kitadake-yamagoya . Google translate link: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fliliki.net%2Fkitadake-yamagoya .
As for the helmets, I had a look at the pictures I took on that hike again, and realised that almost no one was actually wearing a helmet. Those who carried one also carried ropes so they might’ve been there for free climbing on the buttress. Therefore, I think helmets are not necessary/I would not take any.
May 20, 2019 — 13:23
Harman says:
So it’s doable as a day hike? What time did you start and finish? I’m thinking of doing it as a day hike in the first week of Nov 2019.
Would you be able to share your gpx file,if possible can you upload it to AllTrails!
Cheers
September 27, 2019 — 14:56
nb says:
Hey! It is doable as a day hike, but of course this also depends on your level of fitness. I took the first bus as 04:25am and started hiking at 06:45. Then I took the bus back at 5pm, which was the last bus of the day.
If you feel rushed during the hike or think that you can’t make it, then you can always skip going over to Ainodake to save yourself about 2-3h of hiking.
Be sure to check the bus schedule in advance though, as I’m not sure if/when the buses run during November. There might also already be some snow during November, so best check the weather forecast during the weeks leading up to your trip and bring the necessary gear.
You can find the GPX file here: https://cloud.nimar-blume.de/s/yiwcYakHZtnQdMH
The password is: kitadake
September 27, 2019 — 22:22
Mico says:
It was my dream hike and now finally planning to finish the summit. At the meantime, can I paint those amazing photos of your journey? That would be awesome!
October 14, 2022 — 19:20
nb says:
Hi Mico, thanks for the kind words. Of course, paint all you like :)
October 17, 2022 — 01:51
Mico says:
Thank you so much! Can’t wait to see more of your travel!
October 17, 2022 — 02:39